Catwalk Report - Marc Jacobs S/S 2011

Marc Jacobs sends us to the sweet shop for Spring/Summer 2011

For his own label, Marc Jacobs references the seventies in a breathtakingly bright palette.

Bold sorbet shades dominated Jacobs’ latest collection, which was shown in New York with Vivaldi’s “Summer” as its dizzying soundtrack. Hailing a return to the seventies with printed silks, peasant blouses and flared legs, the dynamic designer evoked memories of a young Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver.

Models including Jourdan Dunn, Freja Beha Erichssen, and Alessandro Ambrosio strode around a large golden orb as fast as their glitter platforms could carry them. With their crimped candyfloss hair billowing behind them and eyes rimmed thick with kohl, the models oozed fierce, sexy feminity. Oversized orchid and hibiscus flowers were placed around the neck, on elaborate belts around the waist and entwined into hair, adding a playful floral theme as well as extra volume to the varied silhouettes within the collection. Floppy, wide brimmed hats and large sunglasses further contributed to the retro glamour, creating a strong look.

It seems that Mia Farrow must have been one of Marc Jacobs’ muses, when she played the wonderfully whimsical Daisy Buchanan in the 1974 film adaption of the classic novel, The Great Gatsby. With her weightless summer dresses and large brimmed hats, Daisy would have been in vogue and the ultimate Marc Jacobs girl for the upcoming spring/summer season.

Key looks include a powder pink sleeveless coat with exaggerated ruffles around the shoulders, tied with a large bow at the neck and teamed with contrasting micro hot pants and vest. The flowing tangerine jumpsuit was unmissable due to the plunging neckline and bold magenta sash, as were the elegant chiffon dresses that appeared towards the end of the show.

Flashes of black contradicted the otherwise colourful show, including a ruched bandeau top which was paired with wide legged high-waisted trousers of the same ebony fabric. Floaty chiffon dresses and sheer barely-there tops showed a delicate side to the collection, ready for when the sun does shine once again. Four luxurious gold ensembles ended the show with a lasting impression, adding some eveningwear sparkle with sequinned palm tree motifs and glittering tiger stripes.

A large majority of the looks were accessorised with a bold clutch or small shoulder bag. Jacobs ensured that his girls looked well prepared for a night of dancing at the notorious Studio 54 nightclub, which was ever popular in the seventies due to the attendance of icons such as Mick Jagger, Jerry Hall, Debbie Harry and Michael Jackson. The front row of the spring/summer show was similarly sprinkled with celebrities, including the likes of Alexa Chung and Courtney Love. Jacobs described this season’s creations as “sensuous”, using mostly linens and silks to create the nostalgic garments he sent down the runway. A far cry from the natural neutral tones from autumn/winter 2010, the exemplary designer is sure to have won over fans with his combination of jewelled shades and statement designs.